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svatá Ludmila

Czechia

The stone is the reason most people come, so start there. Beneath the main altar of the Church of St Ludmila in Tetín, the altar table, the mensa, is glazed, and behind the glass lies a stone on which St Ludmila is said to have been killed. The word that matters is 'said': the tradition is recorded as a claim, not a proven fact, and it is worth holding it that way as you lean in to look. Whatever you make of it, the whole building is arranged around that piece of rock.

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